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Watch Parts Ordering Problems In 1970? 100 Times Harder Now “THE MODERN WATCHMAKER’S SERVICE MANUAL” was a booklet reprinted from a series in the American Horologist & Jeweler (now the Horological Times) prepared for the WMJDA (Watch Material and Jewelry Distributors Association, now called the JIDA for the Jewelry Industry Distributors Association by Robert F. Kilb. This booklet is not dated and I
will find out later when it was done. By the names of some of the companies
still in business my best guess is this was written over 48 years ago in the early 1970's. I happen
to know Robert F. Kilb who is about 30 years older than me. Mr. Kilb who
retired in the 1990's was about the most gentle and kind man in the industry.
For him to write about these issues and the way he does is a serious matter.
But, the truth is 40 to 50 years ago when this booklet was written the parts
industry was much different and easier place for all to do business, then the
conditions today. I think every person at every
level in this industry should read what Robert F. Kilb wrote. The watch
repairperson, store owner, watch collector/hobbyist, the folks who now run the
Swiss Watch Industry as well. Every American in this industry along with
everyone who owns a watch should note that our elected US Senators and members
of Congress write the laws that govern us and outline how business is conducted
in the USA by all not some guy or gal in Switzerland. Okay, you heard
me rant and rave some so I better get to Mr. Kilb’s series. Please keep in mind
I will be testing you to see if you read this. As our “Sir Paulo” likes to say
“work with us, not against us”.
Lets Light A
Candle Editor's note: This month American Horologist and Jeweler is beginning a series of articles on the proper methods of ordering watch material. These articles have been compiled by the Educational Projects Committee of the Watch Material and Jewelry Distributors Association of America. This first article in the series does not deal with technical questions as such, but rather is an attempt by WMJDA to explain the background of the problem, and what it thinks can and should be done. Comments from readers are solicited as the series progresses, and it is hoped by WMJDA that a dialogue may be stimulated which will ultimately benefit the industry as a whole. Problems besetting the watch repair industry today are certainly plentiful. These exist at all levels of the industry with manufacturers, distributors of replacement parts, and with men at the bench. No one level can fulfill its function without the help of the others, nor can the problems of the industry be dealt with effectively except through cooperative effort, with each level giving others a helping hand. A watch material distributor is a "man in the middle" in this distribution chain, in a number of ways. He buys parts from the watch manufacturers and importers and resells them to the bench repairmen in his trading area. Thus he has a dual responsibility. For his repairmen customers he must maintain an inventory adequate for their needs, and a work force of knowledgeable people able to interpret these needs. For his suppliers he must, among other things, stock enough of their material to maintain good public relations for them in his trading area. From his position in the middle, the material distributor acts also as a liaison between the bench watchmaker and the manufacturer. In this function of go-between, the distributor listens to the problems of the watchmaker, most of which have to do with wage and price scales and the attitudes of employers and the public. He also listens to the problems of his suppliers, the theme of which is their inability to obtain employees capable of properly handling the tremendous amounts of detail in their businesses. Sympathize as he may, the
wholesaler is relatively powerless to do much about these problems of the other
two groups. There isn't a great deal he can do about watchmakers' wages, for
example, or the attitude of the public toward a changing watch market, or manufacturers
and importers' labor problems. Besides, he has a tremendous overriding problem
of his own that he must pay attention to—a problem that he shares with the
bench repairmen, and to a lesser extent, with the manufacturer. That problem is
the efficient use of time. Progressive bench repairmen are keenly aware of the
fact that efficient use of time spells the difference between a profitable and
an unprofitable operation. Increasing use of ultrasonic cleaning machines,
sophisticated watch timing equipment, automatic oilers, material encyclopedias,
and cross-indexed material systems proves this. Money invested in these labor
and cost-saving devices is paying big dividends to efficiency minded
watchmakers. Yet there remains a time-related problem, which is a very real
profit-eater for both repairmen and material distributors alike. To borrow a
term from cost accounting, let us call it "down time," the time
during which a piece of machinery is shut down due to mechanical failure, lack
of work, labor troubles, or whatever. For a watchmaker, down time occurs when a
part ordered from the wholesaler either does not arrive or is sent wrong. This
can happen for a number of reasons . . . carelessness or lack of attention in
writing he order, resulting either in misinterpretation by the wholesaler and
the wrong part being sent, or the wholesaler having to write or more
information before he can fill the order properly; lack of information from the
manufacturer or importer which would enable the wholesaler to fill the order;
carelessness on the part of the wholesale, resulting in the wrong material being sent. Let us discuss this last point for just a moment. It is extremely
important that we lay our cards on the table and own up to the fact that
material houses do make mistakes, and these mistakes cost watchmakers money in
terms of down time. There is absolutely nothing to be gained by trying to paint
ourselves lilywhite and shift the burden of responsibility completely onto the watchmaker's
shoulders. We are human beings dealing with other human beings, and as such
perfection is impossible. We must, however, not give up trying, and it is the
responsibility of every material department head to investigate customer
complaints, determine who was in error, and if it was the fault of the material
house, find out why the mistake was made, and how it can be avoided in the
future. Regardless of the reasons why material may be sent wrong or back
ordered, the result is the same, down time for the watchmaker, a disruption of
the profit generating routine. This is not good for watchmakers, and it is not
good for material distributors. A distributor has very urgent reasons for
wanting to see that as many orders as possible are filled correctly the first
time. It is axiomatic in the industry that whenever an item is
exchanged, or a letter has to be written, or a phone call placed requesting
more information, an automatic loss is incurred on that order. Therefore it
should be obvious that elimination of down time is in the interests of both
watchmakers and material wholesalers alike, and both must put forth an honest
and unremitting effort to make a dent in the problem. What do we propose to do? We propose to present a discussion of
suggested ordering techniques, which, if applied, will reduce down time at the
bench, make you easier to live with, and perhaps put more money in your pocket.
Both approach and language of these articles will be down-to-earth intended to
impart useful information, not bowl you over with a maze of technical jargon.
If the articles are well received, and watchmakers across the country tell us
they are worth reprinting in booklet form, we shall attempt to do this. We realize, of course, that we cannot undo the habits of years
overnight, but neither can we sit idly by and allow the situation to worsen. We
have used words to damn these problems long enough. Now we propose to use them
to light a candle. Case Material A General Discussion BY FAR THE MOST pressing problem encountered by your WMJDA
wholesaler in filling watch material orders is the apparent lack of
understanding by many watchmakers of the difference between case material and
movement material. Our starting point in any discussion of case material must
be the realization that the movement makes up only half of the completed watch.
The other half is the case and case components. During the production life of a particular movement model, the
watch manufacturer or importer may choose to case this movement in many different
styles, types, and qualities of cases, and for the most part this case material
must be ordered without reference to the model number of the movement. The
following parts fall strictly within the category of case material, and your
WMJDA wholesaler cannot supply them by movement model number alone: crowns,
hands, crystals, gaskets, two piece stems and case clamps. Almost daily your
WMJDA wholesaler must cope with orders like these; stem and crown for AS 1187,
1 pair yellow hands ETA 1256, case clamp Omega 28.10, or 14 dozen gaskets AS
1240. Because your WMJDA wholesaler cannot possibly fill these orders by
movement model number alone, he has no choice but to communicate with his
customer by letter or telephone to request more information. The watchmaker is
understandably irritated by down time on the particular job, and the
wholesaler, as explained in the introductory article in this series, incurs an
automatic loss on each material order where he must write or phone for more
information. Because his business depends on repeat orders from a relatively
limited number of customers, your WMJDA wholesaler has no choice but to accept
an occasional loss order as the price of keeping his customers' goodwill. He
shares this situation with the watchmaker, who frequently finds himself doing
"loss work" for himself or his employer, in hopes of making a profit
on the customer later on. Both watchmakers and material wholesalers must
realize, however, that as businessmen they must cut these losses to an absolute
minimum, lest they eventually find themselves winning the popularity con-test
but not making any money. Regarding the categories of case components listed above, we will
go into great detail on each of these in subsequent articles. The main message
your WMJDA wholesaler wants to convey in this article is to make you, the
watchmaker, aware of the difference between case material and movement
material. Down time is costly for both you and him, but in most instances it is
avoidable. A good habit to get into would be to ask yourself as you are writing
out an order, "Is this case material or movement material?" If it's
case material, don't order by movement model number alone. Case Numbering Systems Some watch manufacturers have provided comprehensive case material
systems keyed to the case numbers of their watches. These systems are time and
irritation savers for both watchmakers and material wholesalers alike. It
should be pointed out, however, that some of these systems are more
comprehensive than others, and none is completely up-to-date on furnishing case
number data for brand new models. This means that even the conscientious
watchmaker who follows the suggestions in these articles to the letter will
occasionally be disappointed when he finds that his WMJDA wholesaler has not
yet received information on a very recent case number. In short, we may compare
the case number system to democracy-it has its drawbacks-but it's still the
best idea anybody has come up with to date. To guide the watchmaker in determining the scope of the various
case number systems, we have prepared the following chart, which may be used as
a rough guide.
Case Material: Crowns IN LAST MONTH'S ARTICLE we discussed the differences between case
material and movement material, and how important is not to order case material
by movement model number alone. We
also touched briefly on factory case code number systems, their benefits and
their limitations. This month we should like to talk about crowns, next to
crystals probably the most frequently replaced case component. Broadly speaking, crowns fall into
two major categories, genuine and non-genuine. Many watches will not function
properly without genuine factory replacement crowns. Others will, but it is always the best policy to fit a genuine
crown if it is available. Most WMJDA wholesalers stock genuine crowns for the
following watches: Benrus, Bulova, Elgin, Gruen, Hamilton, Longines, LeCoultre,
Mido, Omega, Rolex, Seiko, Wittnauer, and Wyler. Recheck the chart in last
month's article for crowns that may be ordered by case number and color. For
all others, the ordering procedure is essentially the same as for non-genuine
crowns. Ordering Crowns by Description The most efficient and profitable method of fitting crowns is, of course,
to have a comprehensive selection at your fingertips at all times. Whether you
stock crowns in depth, or prefer to order them as a specific need arises, the
following descriptive criteria will aid you in making your requirements known
to your WMJDA wholesaler: Outside diameter; Tap; Style; Color; Opening
diameter; and Post lengths. The
following is a more detailed discussion of these criteria, and how they may be
determined. Outside diameter: Use your sliding vernier gauge to make this measurement, read-g
to I/10th millimeter. If the old crown is still on the watch, measure it and
allow few tenths of a millimeter extra if it is idly worn. If the old crown is
missing, use your sliding gauge to determine the proper outside diameter of
crown for the particular type of case. Watchmakers in-rested in learning more
about crowns and the importance of fitting them properly are urged to read
Henry B. Fried's "Watch Crown Manual." This book is available from
your WMJDA wholesaler, and is well worth your time. If the side of the case is
recessed, simply measure the diameter of the recess and deduct a few tenths of
a millimeter for crown clearance.
Style:
Most crowns fall into one of three major groups: regular, water-resistant, or
dustproof. Within these major groups several shapes are available, e.g. domed,
straight wall, bevel-bottom, antique, round, etc. Color:
Specify yellow, white, stainless steel, chrome, pink, etc. Opening diameter: For waterproof crowns, the diameter of the opening or recess is
identical to the outside diameter of the pendant post. Use your sliding vernier
gauge to determine this O.D. reading to I/10th millimeter. For non-waterproof
cases with pendant posts, choose crown with recess .50 mm to 1.00 mm larger
than O.D. of pendant post. Post length:
This refers to the post of the crown as distinguished from the pendant post,
which is part of the case. Most common lengths are referred to simply as flush,
medium, and long. Crowns for Hamilton "CLD" models: When ordering crowns for Hamilton
"CLD" models, give the name of the watch in the case (Steeldon,
Nordon, Haddon, etc.). This is sufficient information for your WMJDA wholesaler
to fill the order properly. Pocket
watch crowns: These are especially troublesome, due primarily to a steadily
diminishing availability o£ replacement crowns. It is no longer economically
feasible for the crown manufacturers to produce the huge variety of pocket
watch crowns they once did, due both to declining overall demand, and
skyrocketing production costs per unit. There has been a certain resurgence of
demand recently with the popularity of pocket watches (especially the smaller
hunting case varieties) as collector’s items, but manufacturers' and
wholesalers' stocks of replacement crowns are practically exhausted. It is sad
hut true that owners of fine pocket watches will find it increasingly
difficult, and often impossible, to fine proper replacement crowns for these
time pieces. While the suggestions outlined above for ordering other crowns
apply also to pocket watch crowns, it is always advisable to send the sample
crown (if you have it), the case ring, the stem, and the sleeve. If your WMJDA
wholesaler is forced to substitute, it will be much easier to select a crown
from stock if he has all the necessary components at his fingertips. A word about sleeves and pendant set stems: These parts are also becoming well nigh
impossible to obtain. Order sleeves and/or pendant set stems first by sample,
but if the particular one you need is no longer available, your WMJDA
wholesaler will ask you to send the crown, case ring, and watch movement, as
well as the stem and sleeve. The wholesaler may be able to supply a slightly
different stem sleeve combination, but he may also have to supply a new crown
if the new stem has a different tap. Deuber-Hampden stems and sleeves: These have been virtually extinct for many years (the Hampden
Watch Company went out of business in 1930). Send the case and movement
(movement removed from case, please) to your WMJDA wholesaler for possible
retapping of the pendant and fitting of a conventional stem and sleeve
arrangement. After coordinating all of the above factors (it only takes a few
seconds in actual practice), refer to your crown assortment to see whether you
have the needed crown in stock. If not, refer to the crown section of your
material encyclopedia and order the crown from your WMJDA wholesaler by master
system number, refill number, and color. If the encyclopedia does not list a
crown which matches the dimensions you need, send the dimensions and
description to your WMJDA wholesaler and he will either supply a crown as close
as possible, or else try to obtain one
for you on special order. Case Material: Hands LAST MONTH'S ARTICLE concerned crowns and proper ordering procedures. This month we will discuss the
ordering of watch hands. The proper ordering of watch hands seems to be shrouded in mystery
for many watchmakers. There should be nothing mysterious about it, however, if
one realizes first of all that hands are case material, and thus cannot be
ordered by movement caliber alone.
Hour and
Minute Hole Size: The
best way to determine hole size is to measure the diameter of the hour wheel
and cannon pinion with a dial gauge or micrometer to I/100th millimeter.
However, a reasonably accurate reading can be taken with the sliding gauge
reading to I/10th millimeter on the vernier scale. Specify diameter of fourth
wheel pinion or sweep second pinion, if second or sweep second hand is desired.
An alternative method of gauging hands is the hand hole-size gauge illustrated
on this page, hut, of course, it is useless where the hands have either been
lost, or the holes distorted.
Make and Calibre of Movement: With this information your WMJDA wholesaler can determine
whether he may have genuine hands in stock for a particular movement. However,
you must include all the other information listed above, even for genuine
hands, in order for your WMJDA wholesaler to make the proper selection. Dial Diameter: Dial diameter,
for hand selecting purposes, is measured in millimeters from the outside of the
minute track on the one side of the dial to the outside of the minute track on
the other side of the dial. Here again the sliding millimeter gauge is the
handiest tool to use. Be sure and specify that this measurement is the dial
diameter overall, and not just the length of the minute hand. Style of Hand: Consult the
chart in this section and see whether the style of hand you need is illustrated
there. If it is, designate the style on your order using the WMJDA preferred
designation. If the style of hand you need is not illustrated, draw a picture
or send sample. To avoid a matching charge, do not send samples unless
absolutely necessary. Color: Specify blue, white,
yellow, etc. Plain or Radium: Specify
whether the hands you need are for a plain dial, or for a radium (luminous)
dial. Specimen Order: Here is a
typical order for hands, incorporating the basic elements outlined above: 1 pr.
hands AS 1194; Hour 1.32, minute .85; Dial 22mm overall; alpha white radium. A hand order like this will be
filled correctly the first time by your WMJDA wholesaler. Miscellaneous Notes on Hands:
Order hour and minute hands by pairs only. Your customer will immediately
notice the color difference between the old and the new if you replace only one
hand. For your convenience, all genuine hands and many metric assortment hands
are packaged in pairs. Maintain a good working stock of
basic land styles at your bench. Time
spent in ordering and waiting for a special pair of lands isn't making money for you. Stocking hands enables you to
take advantage of quantity discounts that will lower your unit material cost.
Your WMJDA wholesaler sales representative will be happy to suggest the right hand system for you. Do not send complete watches or movements
to your WMJDA wholesaler to have lands
fitted or "selected." Not only will
you be money ahead by ordering as outlined above, but you will not have
to explain to an irate customer that his watch was lost or damaged in shipment.
Carelessness on the part of postal employees and outright rifling of the mails
is, unfortunately, becoming more prevalent by the day, and the paper work
involved in filing loss claims can be
very time-consuming. The retail
customer neither understands nor appreciates the problem. All he knows is "You lost my
watch." Watch Crystals: How to Order THERE is NO ONE perfect and
foolproof way of obtaining the watch crystals you need the first time every
time. A startling statement, perhaps, but true, and it should be the starting
point for our discussion of watch crystal ordering. The reason this situation exists is
that the profusion of new watch cases hitting the market within a given time
period simply outruns the ability of the crystal manufacturers and watch
companies to pro- duce and catalog crystals for these new cases. Cataloging is
an expensive business and must be carried out on an economic basis. This means
that enough new crystal numbers must be assembled to make the printing of a new
catalog or sheet at least a break-even proposition for the manufacturer. It is
inevitable that requests for new crystals will always precede adequate supply
and availability of information on these new, numbers. This is a situation that
will not be easily or quickly remedied, and for the benefit of our ulcers we
should learn to live with it. Round Crystals No Problem: The great
bulk of watch crystals being replaced today are the round waterproof types, and
since they present few problems of ordering or stocking we will pass on
immediately to the more troublesome area of odd-shaped or "fancy" crystals. Fancy Crystals: Most fancy crystals
are available in systems put out by the following well-known crystal
manufacturers: Germanow-Simon, Standard Unbreakable, Electro-Seal, Federal, or
American Perfit. Selection of crystals
from these systems is outlined in the crystal catalog of the respective
manufacturer. Genuine Crystals: There has been a
trend on the part of some watch companies in recent years to make genuine
crystals available for their cases. These crystals are sometimes available by
the name of the case style, but more often by the case num-her. The idea of
furnishing crystals by case number has great appeal for the watchmaker because
of its apparent simplicity and many of the crystal manufacturers have jumped on
the bandwagon and furnished a list of case numbers that are cross-referenced to
crystals already in their cabinet assortments. These lists have proven to be a
great boon for the W'MJDA wholesaler, who is faced with the prospect of
proliferating "genuine" crystals on top of those of identical
measurement already in his inventory. Problems With Genuine Crystals:
While the system of ordering and supplying genuine crystals by case number is
excellent in theory, it is less than a total success in actual practice because
of the "communications gap" outlined in the first paragraph of this
section. Very often your WMJDA wholesaler will have no reference whatsoever to
a given case number, either in factory lists or cabinet assortment catalogs. In
this event, he has no alternative but to ask for the watch bezel, to which he is
usually able to fit a crystal from stock.
Fitting Crystals to Bezels: When sending watch bezels for crystal
fitting, you could assist your WMJDA wholesaler by removing the band or strap.
Most bezels can then be put in a tin can and sent both ways in a First Class
Mail "HAND STAMP" envelope. Bezels with bands or straps attached
almost always have to be packed in a box and sent via slow Third Class Mail
(Insured), or expensive United Parcel Service. Don't Send Complete Watches: Your
WMJDA wholesaler requests that you not send complete watches for crystal
fitting unless the watch is of a type requiring both movement and case together
for a satisfactory fit. Otherwise keep the movements at home and minimize the
danger of loss or damage in the mails. Hunting Case Crystals: When bezels
fitted with hunting case or "Geneva" crystals are returned to you, do
not replace the bezel on the watch and close the cover until you have checked
the inside of the cover for dents. Such dents are often difficult to detect,
but they will crack the new crystal the first time the cover is closed. A
wooden dent remover is a "must" tool for every watchmaker. Does It Pay to Stock Crystals? A
word about the economics of stocking watch crystals: Every owner of a crystal
system has at one time or another wondered whether it really paid him to stock
all those crystals, especially when he can point to many crystals that were in
the cabinet when he bought it and have never been used. The key question here
is not how many of the original crystals remain. The purchase of any kind of a
system is a gamble, and there are bound to be certain numbers that move faster
than others, and some that may not move at all in a particular area. The key
question is how many times in a year are you "turning" your
inventory, to borrow a term from accounting. If you are buying refills, this
means you are selling crystals, and selling them at probably the highest
percentage markup of any item you handle, with a minimum of labor and handling
cost. 500% markup would be a conservative estimate. It should be obvious then
that the stocking and fitting of crystals from a cabinet assortment is indeed a
highly profitable part of the watch repair enterprise, in spite of the
investment required. Old systems should be rejuvenated by the addition of
"supplements" and new systems purchased when necessary, in order to
have an up-to-date assortment at your fingertips. Case Material: Two-Piece Stems THE NUMBER OF WATCHES employing the
two-piece male and female stem sys-tem is growing rapidly and proving to be a
headache for watchmakers and wholesalers alike. TWO-PIECE STEMS ESSENTIALLY CASE
MATERIAL: While the conventional threaded stem may be ordered by movement
caliber alone, the two-piece stem must be ordered by caliber and measurement,
since the length of the shoulder(s)-is dependent on the style of case with
which it is used. If this basic distinction is kept in mind, you should have
very little trouble ordering and obtaining the proper two-piece stem
combination from your WMJDA wholesaler.
Two-piece stem-movement end female Two-piece stem-movement end male Two-piece stem-crown end female Two-piece stem-crown end male MALE CROWNS, CROWN NECKS, EXTERIOR THREADED
POSTS: When first introduced, two-piece stem combinations used a female split
stem on the movement end, with a crown neck of a specific length and a male-thread
waterproof crown. These combinations are seldom encountered today, having been
displaced by exterior threaded posts used with conventional female-thread
waterproof crowns. Exterior
threaded posts are an item that every watchmaker should have in stock in taps
10 and 8, long and short length. They may be cut to length for a particular
job, and are tremendous time and irritation savers. MOVEMENT CALIBER NUMBER NOT
SUFFICIENT: Many watch models call for more than one length of movement-end stem,
because of different case designs using the same movement. When ordering
movement-end stems, you must specify the caliber of the movement and the
overall length of the stem, measuring from the tip of the pilot to the end of
the shoulder. This measurement should be in millimeters and accurate to I/10th.
Do not send sample unless absolutely necessary. This information should be
adequate for your WMJDA wholesaler to fill your order correctly. TWO-PIECE STEM KITS: Some watch
manufacturers who employ two-piece stems extensively have made kits of these
parts available to the watchmaker at a very reasonable price. Using various
combinations included in the kit, the watchmaker can figure out the respective
lengths of movement-end and crown-end two-piece stems needed for a particular
job. When a piece of material from a kit is used, it should be re-ordered
immediately so that it will be on hand when the next need arises. See your WMJDA wholesaler salesman
for information on two-piece stem kits. Case Material-Miscellaneous GASKETS: As
with so many other items of case material, gaskets fall into two major
categories, genuine and non-genuine. Within these two major categories, gaskets
may be further subdivided according to the following criteria: Shape: Round, which are by far the
most common, rectangular, and square. Profile: Flat or "0" ring. Material: Plastic, rubber, or lead. Gasket Assortments: You will never
be able to stock every possible type of gasket for which you may have a call
but your WMJDA wholesaler suggests that the purchase and maintenance of the
following three basic assortments will solve the lion's share of your gasket
problems: Otto Frei-type envelope system, including round flat, round "0"
ring, and rectangular flat; Genuine Omega gasket assortment; Genuine Bulova
gasket kit—presently available only in combination with certain numbers of
waterproof crowns. With these assortments and your sliding millimeter gauge, most
gasket replacement problems will become a simple matter of measuring the
outside diameter of the gasket slot, consulting the assortment chart for the
gasket number nearest the measurement, and inserting the new gasket. The Otto Frei-type assortment contains
practically every conceivable size of round-flat plastic gaskets, and is used
in a larger version by many WMJDA wholesalers as a master system. Refills are
always readily available. Genuine Omega gaskets, especially
the round "0" ring types, are extremely useful as replacements for
worn or lost gaskets on Omega snap-back waterproof cases. Omega gaskets may
also be ordered from your WMJDA wholesaler by case number. The Bulova assortment is almost
indispensable because it contains certain styles exclusive to Bulova watches,
and frequently used. Among these are the popular "centered-loop" and
"offset-loop' styles. Since Bulova gaskets are not yet available in case
numbers, it is helpful to have as wide a selection as possible at your
fingertips. If the particular Bulova gasket you need is not in the assortment,
order by movement model number, outside diameter of gasket slot, and
description of profile or- any special features. Your WMJDA wholesaler should
be able to fill your order from this information. Elgin Gaskets: Elgin gaskets may be
ordered from your WMJDA wholesaler by case number. Information on gaskets, crowns, and hands is contained in the
excellent Elgin case components manual. Hamilton Gaskets: Hamilton gaskets
are listed by dimension in the Hamilton parts catalog. Measure slot with
sliding milli meter gauge and order gasket by Hamilton part number. Case Clamps Omega Case Clamps: Omega case clamps
are by far the most frequently ordered, and therefore we shall devote a special
section to them. Omega case clamps may be ordered
from your WMJDA wholesaler by case number. However, occasionally your WMJDA
wholesaler might not yet have a record of very new Omega case numbers, and he
would have to write for further information before filling your order. A surer
method of ordering Omega case clamps is as follows: Assuming that one of the case clamps remains in the watch to be
used as a sample, remove it and measure its lengthy and width to I/100th
millimeter. Jot down these measurements. Then turn to the section of your
material catalog in which Omega case clamps are illustrated. Match up your
sample with one of the pictures, being absolutely certain that both shape and
dimensions correspond. With each illustration you will find two numbers, the
Omega factory part number, and the system position number. Order by specifying
the system position number. Do not use the Omega factory part number. The reason for this is that there is so
much duplication and confusion in the factory numbers that your WMJDA
wholesaler could not possibly fill your order correctly. You will see by studying the Omega case clamp
section in your catalog, for example, that at least eighteen different Omega
case clamps carry the number 1911. An assortment of Omega case clamps is
not expensive, and will pay back its cost many times over in valuable time
saved. See your WMJDA wholesaler representative for details. Other Case Clamps: For case clamps other than Omega, order by
movement model number and sample. Do not send the sample without the movement
model number. Your WMJDA wholesaler should be able to fill your order with this
information. Movement Material OUR ARTICLES thus far have dealt
with the proper ordering of Case Materially crowns, hands, crystals, two-piece
stems gaskets, etc. We have tried to emphasize in each article that case
material is distinctly separate from movement material, and that for the most
part it must be ordered without reference to movement caliber number.
Exceptions to this rule were duly noted within the individual articles. Now we are ready to take up the
subject of proper ordering techniques for movement material. The main lesson
learned in our discussion of case material, namely that there is a tremendous
variety available for~>e any given watch, also applies to movement material.
What we are saying is that movement model or caliber number is not sufficient
information for your WMJDA wholesaler to fill your order correctly the first
time. We can state without fear of contradiction that there has never been a
watch movement marketed under a given calibet number that did not contain part
variations within the caliber. Every watchmaker has had the experience of
having ordered a part by caliber number only, and having been informed by his
material supplier that more specific information was needed, because the
particular part was available in several different varieties. In this article we are attempting to
point out the most common problem areas. We urge watchmakers to make a
conscious effort to memorize them, and to automatically supply the necessary
information on each and every order. In this way costly and time-consuming
requests for additional information can be avoided, and promised jobs can be
delivered on schedule. Here are important points to have in mind when ordering: Height: Due
to differences of dial curvature, the following parts are invariably made in
different heights for the same movement: cannon pinion, hour-wheel, and (weep second pinion or wheel and pinion
combination. Get into the habit of automatically including height measurements
when ordering these parts. Use your dial gauge, if you own one, measuring to
I/100th millimeter. If you cannot give a measurement to I/100th millimeter, a
measurement with your sliding Boley gauge to I/10th milli-meter is better than
none at all. Never order cannon pinions, hour wheels, or sweep second pinions
without specifying overall height. Pivot profile: Movements carrying
the same model number are usually available with different train jewel arrangements.
Capped jewels in the power train usually indicate conical pivots. You must
specify straight pivots or conical pivots on your orders for the following
parts: escape wheel, third wheel, fourth wheel, and pallet arbor. You must also
specify the profile of both upper and lower pivot, using the following format
which has gained general acceptance in the trade: S/S—both pivots straight,
C/'S—upper pivot conical, S/C—lower pivot conical, or C/C—both pivots conical. A word of caution here. To determine
actual pivot profile, remove the part from-the movement and examine it under
the loupe. Many movements being marketed today carry false cap jewels, and the
pivots they cover are actually straight. A good ex-ample of the importance for
specifying pivot profile on your orders is the very popular Bulova SAD
movement. This movement is made in 17, 21, and 23 jewel movements, and the
third wheels are different. You must specify pivot profile to obtain this part
correctly the first time you order. Regulators: specify whether for flat
or brequet hairspring. Rollers: specify regular or shock
protected. They are not the same. Mainsprings: specify end style. This
is especially important when ordering mainsprings for Longines, Wittnauer, or
Le Coultre models which list both tongue and tee ends for the same model. Take
the spring out of the barrel and look at it. Also, when ordering automatic
watch main springs by measurement, specify bridle end, so that your WMJDA
wholesaler can send you the correct spring the first time. Balances complete—give following
information: flat or brequet, regular or shock (if shock, specify type), beats
per hour (BPH). This is very important today with more and more fast beat
movements in the market place. Also screw-type or screwless. Balance staffs: It is a rare model
indeed that does not list more than one balance staff. The following factors
all enter in to your choice of the proper staff for a given model: regular or
shock. If shock, consult your material encyclopedia to determine exact type.
All collet diameter, roller shoulder diameter, and balance shoulder diameter to
I/100th millimeter, friction or rivet, and screw-type, or screwless balance. After coordinating all of the above
factors, select the proper staff from the listing in your material
encyclopedia, and order from your WMJDA wholesaler by system number. Be particularly careful when ordering
balance staffs for Jules Racine timers 3364 or 3364R. These models use a great
variety of staffs, and model number alone is not sufficient. Use the factors
listed above to •make a selection from your material encyclopedia, or send the
sample staff with the model number to your WMJUA wholesaler. 3e prepared to pay a matching charge to
artificially offset the wholesaler's added expense of filling an order to
sample. Most WMJDA wholesalers consider
the sealed V4 dozen package as the minimum order quantity for staffs and stems.
They will usually make an exception, however, for models that are obviously
obsolete or extremely slow moving. Due to the limitations of space we
must necessarily confine ourselves to hitting the high spots in a discussion of
this sort. Many problem areas have gone unmentioned in order that we may devote
maximum attention to those which cost watchmakers the most in terms of down
time on repairs. Next month we will delve more deeply into the area of movement
material with a discussion of shock system components, a nightmare for
watchmakers and material suppliers alike. Shock Material FOR MANY YEARS the proper ordering
of shock system components has been a thorn in the flesh of both watchmakers
and material suppliers alike. The situation today is more confused and muddled
than ever before, due to the continuing influx of cheap movements employing new
and unnecessarily complex shock mechanisms. The good old days of only a few
standard shock mechanisms are seemingly gone forever, and we must now somehow
learn to cope with the jungle that confronts us. With some few exceptions, we may
state that shock material must not be ordered by movement caliber number alone.
The only exceptions to this rule, as far as we are able to tell, are Bulova
(including Cara-velle), Elgin, and Hamilton. These three factories have done an
excellent job of cataloging their shock parts by caliber number, and you may be
reasonably sure of getting what you need by specifying both part am caliber.
With (he exception of these three factories, watch manufacturers and importers
in general have tended to sweep the issue under the rug and hoped that it would
go away. This lack of provision for the orderly distribution of shock parts by
caliber number is bearing bitter fruit for many of these same manufacturers and
importers today. In view of the mass marketing o: cheap timepieces through
outlets other than the retail jeweler, it is natural that the jeweler should
want to sell watches not only superior in quality to those generally available
through mass outlets, but watches that are easily and economically serviceable. Service is the sine qua non of the retail
jeweler's market mix. Without it, he could not survive for one hour against the
mass merchandisers. For advice on choosing lines of watches that are easily and
economically serviceable, the jeweler is turning more and more to his
"expert in residence," the watch-maker. If the watchmaker says that
parts for a certain brand of watches are not readily and easily obtainable, the
jeweler will surely want to think twice before saddling his already
overburdened watchmaker with the added problem of trying to order parts without
sufficient information. Availability of shock-system components by caliber
number is a reliable indication that the manufacturer or importer in question
is concerned about and has taken steps to provide orderly distribution of parts
with a minimum of guesswork. Cursing the darkness, of course, is
not going to make the problem go away. We must light a candle. How then should
we proceed when we have to order shock components not readily available by
caliber number? Consult your material encyclopedia. Identifying shock
components from the encyclopedia is essentially a three-step procedure: 1—Using the shape of the springs as a guide, determine the name of
the shock mechanism (Incabloc, Kif, Duofix, etc.). 2—Determine the specific size and shape you are looking for within
the larger category. Within the category Incabloc, for example, there are many,
many different springs, jewels, settings available. Select the one you need by
comparison of illustrations and measurements. 3—After narrowing down the many possibilities to one choice only,
order by the MASTER SYSTEM NUMBER and POSITION NUMBER. These numbers appear next to the factory
part number in the encyclopedia and
are keyed to your supplier's system. Using these numbers makes it possible for
him to send you what you ordered with a minimum of delay and error. If the shock system you heed parts
for is very new and not listed in the encyclopedia, send the intact shock
setting to your WMJDA wholesaler for identification. Sometimes the upper and lower settings are different within a
given movement, but identification of the general type is the first approach
towards getting off of dead center. The industry-wide acceptance of
ultra- sonic cleaning and widespread use of the Bergeon and Obama automatic
oilers, for oiling assembled jewels have considerably reduced the necessity for
disassembling shock mechanisms. Extremely dirty settings must still be taken
apart and pegged, how- ever, and even the steadiest watchmaker will
occasionally "Hip" a spring or jewel. Your WMJDA wholesaler suggests that at exasperating times like
these you will welcome an assortment of shock components at your fingertips.
The best way to build up a practical assortment is to purchase shock able to
components in 1/4 dozen lots, and the chances are good that you will be help
yourself when an emergency arises. Clock Material THE FOLLOWING is a list of
often-ordered items of clock material with the information your WMJDA
wholesaler must have to fill the order correctly the first time: Clock Springs: Order by measurement
and description of end style (hole-end, loop end, open loop, tongue, etc.).
Measure width in inches (to l/64th, if necessary). Measure strength (thickness)
in thousands of an inch with inch micrometer. Measure length in inches. Inch measurements are preferred for
clock springs, but millimeter measurements are acceptable. Please specify which
system you are using. If sending sample, please clean spring before sending.
Also, be pre-pared to pay matching charge for samples. Do not send sample
springs in barrels. Your WMJDA wholesaler must make an additional charge for
removing spring from barrel. Clock Keys: Order clock keys by
description (single-end, double-end, etc.) and hole size. Catalog number is
helpful (specify which catalog you are using). Measure square of arbor to
I/10th milli-meter with vernier of sliding millimeter gauge. Order key with
hole size 2/lOth's millimeter larger than square of arbor. Clock Glasses: For ordinary round
con-vex or round flat glasses, order by diameter to l/16th inch. For other
glasses give measurement, shape, material (glass 4 plastic), and name and model
number o] clock. Dials: Specify diameter in inches
(from outside of minute track on one side to outside of minute track on other
side). Also, whether dial should have Arabic or Roman numerals. Hands: Most older American clocks
use a standard hour hand hole size. However, you must specify whether the
minute hand has a square hole (pendulum escapement) or oblong hole (lever
escapement). Order proper length by specifying diameter of dial (actual length
of minute hand' would be one-half of dial diameter). Specify style of hand
(spade, maltese, or other). Replacement hands are generally avail-able
only in blue steel color. Your WMJDA wholesaler suggests that you replace hands
in pairs in order to avoid sharp color contrasts. For hands other than standard
American hole size your WMJDA wholesaler requests that you order by sample,
also give the name and model number of the clock, if possible. Give your WMJDA
wholesaler permission to special-order the hands for you if he does not have
them in stock. Pendulums: When the pendulum is
missing from the clock the best procedure is to check your WMJDA wholesaler's
catalog to see whether a pendulum is listed for the particular clock (e.g. New
Haven, Gilbert, Seth Thomas Adamantine, etc.). If there is no specific listing
for the clock, 'your best course is to order a standard adjustment pendulum
ball. These are available for both 8 day and 1 day clocks, and your WMJDA
wholesaler suggests that you keep one of each on hand at all times. Suspension Springs: French
clock-type suspension springs should be ordered by catalog number by comparing
the spring with the illustrations of these springs in your WMJDA wholesaler's
catalog. Take care to match the picture as closely as possible to the actual
spring. If you cannot find a listing of the spring you need your WMJDA
wholesaler suggests that you order a piece of flat spring steel of the proper
gauge and disassemble the brass holding plates, and replace the broken portion
of the spring. Unfortunately there is no formula
for determining the proper spring if the sample is missing from the clock. Verges: Within the past few years
complete replacement verges have again appeared on the market and are being
stocked by most WMJDA wholesalers. Order by sample and name of clock. Verge
components are also available in kits at a much lower price. Discontinued and Unavailable Clock
Parts: Replacement parts for obsolete clocks are almost impossible to obtain
with the exception of those standardized parts listed above. As a general rule
do not order by the name of the clock since the factories have been out of
business for many years and parts are not available. Most WMJDA wholesalers are
not able to supply items like train wheels. Your best source for wheels and
other difficult parts would be a local clock repairman, or a collector having a
stock of used clock movements. Cuckoo Clock Material Cuckoo Bellows: Specify length and
whether bellows has back opening or side opening. Cuckoo Chain: Order by catalog
number if your catalog shows the number of links per foot. Otherwise order by
sample. If chains are missing entirely, send chain wheel. Please remember that
cuckoo chains are sold only by the pair. Cuckoo Chain Wheels: Order by
sample. Give your WMJDA wholesaler permission to try and obtain the wheel on a
special order, if necessary. Cuckoo Weights: This is a problem only
when both weights are missing. There is no alternative here but to try various
weights until you find the right combination for the particular clock. Cuckoo Hands: Cuckoo hands are ordered by the length of
the minute hand in millimeters and measured from the center of the hole to the
tip. Compare this K standard American clock hands which are measured by overall
dial diameter in inches Specify whether small hole, large hole, 01 brass
bushing minute. Suggestion: small holes are usually the wiser choice because
they may be filed larger to fit a particular post. Material for 400-Day Clocks, Travel Clocks AN INVALUABLE AID in the
identification and servicing of 400 day clocks is The Horolovar 400-Day Clock
Repair Guide, published by the Horolovar Company and available from your WMJDA
wholesaler. This book is a worthwhile purchase. 400 DAY SUSPENSION SPRINGS: Order by
strength—thickness. This dimension may be given in thousandths of an inch or
hundredths of a millimeter; either is acceptable. The most important thing is
that the measurement be exact. The slightest variation in the strength of the
spring will make a large variation in the timing of the clock. To be absolutely
sure, your WMJDA wholesaler suggests that you measure three times before ordering.
Send sample only if necessary, and be prepared to pay sample matching charge. HOOK AND FORKS: Match up with
picture in catalog and order by catalog number. COMPLETE SUSPENSION ASSEM-BLIES:
Identify clock by comparing with plate illustrations in Horolovar book.
Careful! Many similarities. Order by number in book, but give your WMJDA
wholesaler permission to special-order, if necessary. DOMES: Order by diameter and height
in inches. Do not order by name of clock. Check catalog to see whether dome you
need is listed. If it is not, it may be difficult to obtain, even on a special
order. Travel Clock Material The first thing to remember is that
the name on the dial and plates is absolutely meaningless when ordering parts
for most travel clocks. Check your material catalog for an
illustration of the clock plates. If they are shown, you can at least identify
the caliber of the movement. If the individual parts are shown, match up your
sample with the picture and order by part number and position number. If the
part you need is not shown, but you have been able to identify the movement,
specify the movement caliber and order by sample. If you cannot identify the
movement readily, send both the movement and the sample to your WMJDA
wholesaler, with the sample removed from the movement. TRAVEL CLOCK CASE MATERIAL: Travel
clock case material is not standard sized, and is therefore not available to
movement or clock model number. Westclox is an exception. Your WMJDA wholesaler
suggests that you stock the following parts in assortments so that they are
instantly at hand when the need arises: threaded winding keys, thread and
friction setting buttons, and bell screws. This small investment could save
many a precious minute of your time. Westclox Material In order to minimize confusion in
the ordering of Westclox material your WMJ-DA wholesaler recommends the
following procedure: Write down the name and model number of the clock. This information will be found on the case. Locate the name and model number in the index of the latest
Westclock catalog. If you need movement parts, refer to the page showing the basic
movement- for the clock in question. Westclox uses a few basic movements in many different styles of
cases. Order movement parts by name of clock, model number, and Westclox part
number. If you need case parts, refer to the catalog page on which the
complete clock is illustrated. Case
parts will be listed on that page.
Again, order by name of clock, model number, and Westclox part number. MISCELLANEOUS NOTES ON WESTCLOX: If
clock is unusual or very new, give your WMJDA wholesaler per- mission to
special-order the parts for you. Be especially careful when ordering
parts for Baby Ben model 61Y. The original 61Y used the old two-spring Baby Ben
movement, but the newer 6lYs use the Model 77 single-spring movement. Be sure
and specify. Westclox is currently using many
imported movements in their travel clocks.
Please do .not order "part to sample for Westclox travel
clock". If you cannot identify the movement, send the movement and sample
to your WMJDA wholesaler, with the sample removed from the movement. Clock Motors For clock motors that are not really
identifiable or listed by number in your catalog, send the sample to your WMJDA
wholesaler, with permission to special-order, if necessary. Try not to quote definite prices to
your customer ahead-of-time, because very often the unusual clock motors are
high priced, and you might find yourself barely breaking even OB the job. Also, some of the older motors are
simply not available from any source. Watch Case Ordering COMMON OR OFTEN-USED CASES: These
cases are readily available from your WMJDA wholesaler's stock, and include the
10½-11½ ligne stainless steel and chrome screw-back water resistant cases in
various dial openings for stem-wind movements, and the 6% x 8 ligne ladies
snap-back cases. The latter are usually available in case, dial, hand and crown
combinations and are designated as FHF 60. These common cases may be obtained
by stating the size of the movement, the dial opening, color and quality, for
round water-resistant cases, or the shape of the dial opening, color and
quality for 6% x 8 ligne. The watchmaker can save himself a
great deal of inconvenience by keeping one of each of the following cases in
stock at all times: 10½-11½ L stainless water resistant in dial openings 23mm, 25mm,
27mm, and 29mm. 6% x 8 L case, crown, dial and hand combination in yellow and
white RGP with universal or
"cushion-shape" dial opening. CASES FOR SELF-WINDING WATCHES: Most WMJDA wholesalers stock
stainless water-resistant cases for the more popular self-winding movements.
However, dial openings are a problem, and it is suggested that you order
self-winding cases by sending in the movement. Always be sure to tell your
WMJDA wholesaler whether he has your permission to order a case to your
movement, if he does not stock the case you need. This will save several days
time in the ordering process. Some self-winding movements are
"closed" calibers marketed only by certain watch
manufacturers—Bulova, Elgin, Longines-Wittnauer, Omega, Rolex, etc.—and cases
for these movements are usually avail-able only direct from the manufacturer.
However, to save time it is a good idea to inquire of your WMJDA wholesaler
before ordering direct from the manufacturer. SQUARE AND RECTANGULAR CASES: Almost
invariably these must be ordered to the movement and dial. Very often the
movement itself will be round— e.g. the popular 8/0 size Elgin and Hamilton
movements—but the dial and bezel rectangular. It is the best practice to order
these cases by sending in both the movement and dial, and at the same time give
your WMJDA wholesaler permission to order the case since it will very likely
not be in his stock. POCKET WATCH CASES: Availability of
new replacement pocket watch cases is pretty much limited to open-face chrome
or gold plated cases in 12, 16, or 18 size. Original quality replacements are
virtually unobtainable. Hunting cases, double back cases, karat gold cases, or
unusual-size cases—e. g. for 16 size thin Howard—would have to be obtained, if
at all, from collectors, gold scrap buyers, dealers in used movements, etc. OBSOLETE MOVEMENT SHAPES AND SIZES:
Many wristwatch movements produced in Switzerland in the 1920s and 1930s were
of unusual shape and size. Replacement cases for these movements are
practically impossible to obtain through normal sources. By the same token, many of these
movements were set in gold or platinum and mounted with precious stones, and
the owners would like to find replacement movements in good condition. Once in
a great while such a movement may be obtained from a dealer in used movements,
but most WMJDA wholesalers are not in a position to obtain such movements. EXCLUSIVE CASES: These are cases
available only from the manufacturer of the watch. This problem is also treated
above as it relates to certain cases for self-winding watches. The following
special-design cases would fall into this "exclusive" category, to
mention just a few: one-piece cases—Benrus, Wyler, Bulova, Longines-Wittnauer,
etc.—rectangular water-resistant cases requiring screws—Elgin, Croton,
etc.—Hamilton CLD, and direct reading watches. The matter of customer pride also
falls into this category. Most owners of "prestige" watches would not
accept less than genuine Factory cases even if satisfactory substitutes were
available. QUALITY AND COLOR: Always specify
the quality and color of the case you are ordering. Qualities are: all stainless
steel, chrome with stainless back, all chrome —usually pocket watch—rolled gold
plate, 20 micron gold plate, 1/20 12 karat gold filled, and karat gold. The
latter two are relatively rare in replacement cases, and it is good practice to
specify an alternate quality for your WMJDA wholesaler when ordering one of
these. Obsolete Watches THERE is A CONTINUING DEMAND for
replacement parts for obsolete watches, and parts for these watches are becoming
scarcer by the day. Pocket watches are being taken out of storage and repaired
by the thousands. Some are being displayed in domes or brass holders, and some,
especially the smaller hunting case styles, are being worn as decorative
timepieces. The current popularity of restoring "grandpa's watch" is
rapidly draining the supply of replacement parts, and as the supply declines,
prices are on the rise. At least part of the dilemma stems
from the fact that many of the older American watches were extremely well
made—one might say they were almost works of art— and with proper maintenance
should run almost forever. Proper maintenance, however, includes occasional
replacement of a worn or broken part, and the stocks of factory parts for most
of these watches are exhausted. The Hampden, Howard, and Illinois watch
factories went out of business in 1930, and South Bend in 1933. For almost
forty years then watchmakers have been using up the stock of parts which these
factories had on hand when they quit business, and the situation is now
critical. In addition, Elgin has discontinued production of all parts below
grade 532, and the stock of genuine Waltham parts is also becoming rapidly
depleted. Some of the more popular parts for these watches, such as balance staffs
and mainsprings, have been produced in imitation for many years, and will very
likely continue to be available. There may even be additions to the line of
imitation parts avail-able, such as certain popular setting and click springs,
crown and ratchet wheels, etc. Imitation parts, however, are not a complete
answer to the problem, because it will never be economically feasible for a
manufacturer to tool up to reproduce all the parts even one particular watch
model —e.g. the 16 size Illinois Bunn Special, a very popular and sought-after
obsolete movement. More and more the skill of the individual watchmaker will be
tested in the making of replacement parts for these obsolete watches, at a
price to the consumer commensurate with the time and effort involved. Such lost
arts as repivoting and gear cutting will again be practiced for profit. IDENTIFICATION OF MOVEMENTS: It stands to reason that one should
first check out the possibility that an obsolete part may still be available
before proceeding to such extreme measure as making one from scratch. To order
parts, however, the movement must first be correctly identified, and herein
lies a problem. Merely stating the name and size of the watch is usually not
enough, since many models were made in each size, with each using its own
distinct material. Ordering "one center wheel 12 size Waltham" or
"one click 16 size Elgin" is not enough information for your WMJDA
wholesaler. The best possible way to
order obsolete parts is to send both the movement and the sample part to your
WMJDA wholesaler, with the sample removed from the movement or balance wheel.
As the saying goes, a picture is worth a thousand words, and you can save both
yourself and your WM-JDA wholesaler much time by sending the movement and sample
when ordering the first time. Alternative methods of
identification may be used, but none is quite as certain as parts sending the
movement and sample. If, of course you can find the movement illustrated in an
old catalog, with a factory main-number assigned to the part you need, then
order by name of watch, size, name of part, and factory number of the part. An
excellent catalog illustration obsolete American movements is available from
the E. & J. Swigart Company of Cincinnati, Ohio, an active member of WMJDA.
SERIAL NUMBERS: The only watch
company that maintained a truly comprehensive serial number listing up to the
time that grade numbers were stamped on individual movements was Elgin. If the
Elgin watch for which you need parts is not stamped with a grade number (three
digits), order by size of Elgin watch, name of part needed, and serial number.
Do not order these by serial number for watches other than Elgin. PRIVATE BRANDS: In years past it was
quite common for local prestige jewelry stores to contract with watch factories
to supply watches with their own store name on the dial and plates. These
watches occasionally turn up for repair even today. If unable to identify, send
movement and before sample part needed to your WMJDA wholesaler. OBSOLETE SWISS MOVEMENTS: Although
parts for obsolete American movements are becoming very difficult to supply, at
least the movements are for the most part identifiable and your WMJDA
wholesaler knows what he is looking for. With obsolete Swiss, the situation is infinitely
more complex. Many of the movements are hand-made and one-of-a-kind. For many
of the movements that were machine-made, there is no catalog information
available and the factories that produced them never made the slightest
provision for orderly distribution of repair parts. As with obsolete American,
the best way to order is to send the movement and sample with the sample
removed from the movement or balance wheel. For the most part, even this is an
exercise in futility, since the odds are very much against your WMJDA
wholesaler's being able to obtain the part. Findings YOUR WMJDA WHOLESALER must have the
following information in order to fill your findings orders correctly the first
time: CORRECT PART NAME: Consult your
findings catalog for the proper designation of the part(s) you need. MANUFACTURER: Specify Fuller, Cobb, Newall,
Grassman-Blake, etc. CATALOG NUMBER: Look up the part
number in your findings catalog and order by the number. QUALITY: Findings are available in
many different qualities. You must specify exactly what you want. "Fuller
Quality" or "WRC Quality" means 1/40 Rolled Gold Plate. For
karat gold items you must specify 10K or 14K. If low-end merchandise is
de-sired, specify nickel or gold plate. Always check your findings catalog
beforehand to see whether the item is available in the quality you want. COLOR: Gold filled is available in
either yellow or white, as is karat gold. Check catalog to be sure on specific
items. Sterling silver is always white. Nickel-plated is always white. Gold
plate is always yellow. -Be sure and specify color for gold filled and karat
gold items. FACTORY PACKAGES: Most findings come
in standard factory packages. Because of the high cost of labor-all WMJDA
wholesalers engage in interstate commerce and therefore must pay their
employees the prevailing federal minimum wage - your WMJDA wholesaler must make
an extra service charge when selling less than a standard package. This applies
especially to fast-moving items like jump rings, spring rings, spring bars,
etc. PRICES: Findings prices are based on
a descending scale. In other words, any quality under a full unit-usually one
dozen-is charged at a higher rate. Example: If an item is priced at $5.00 for a
full dozen, 1/2 dozen would cost $2.75, 1/4 doz. would cost $1.50, and a single piece would cost 60
cents.
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Otto Frei, Watch Parts Since 1930 Customers Entrance 126 2nd St. Oakland, California 94607 Mailing Address: PO BOX 796, Oakland Ca. 94604 Freight Shipment Address: 119 3rd St. Oakland Ca. 94607 USA
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